Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
